On the Waterfront Though it’s only a 20-minute ferry ride from from Seattle suburb Mukilteo, Whidbey Island feels like the Pacific Northwest’s last frontier—a lost-in-time place of towering redwoods and sparkling coves overlooking Puget Sound. Take refuge at the 28-room Inn at Langley (doubles from $345), in Langley, a pint-size town on the island. Each suite has a Jacuzzi with views of the evergreen-lined Saratoga Passage waterway (and the gray whales that swim through in spring). In the historic center, Lowry-James Rare Prints & Books sells vintage maps and Audubon lithographs; the Clyde Theatre, a 1937 movie house, screens the classics and contemporary films. Drive 30 miles north to Ebey’s Landing to walk the coastal bluffs, or make your way to Coupeville, known for its Penn Cove mussels, which no-frills Toby’s Tavern (lunch for two $22) serves right.