Urban Retreat Though its grand boulevards and Belle Époque–style palaces give Buenos Aires a genteel air, underneath lies an unmistakably bohemian heart. Nowhere is this more apparent than in up-and-coming San Telmo, famous for its Sunday antiques market. Along the narrow cobblestoned streets, faded mansions have been transformed into hotels, such as the Bonito Buenos Aires(doubles from $65, including breakfast) and the classic Palacio Duhau—Park Hyatt Buenos Aires, (doubles from $550) a stylish property in a Neoclassical mansion. Restaurants run the gamut from the innovative La Vinería de Gualterio Bolívar (tapas for two $80), where chef Alejandro Digilio plays with foams and candied lacquering in his pint-size space, to old-school parrillas (grills) like Desnivel (dinner for two $25). This is prime tango territory, and if you can’t make a show at the sultry Bar Sur, catch a mini-performance in the windows of one of San Telmo’s many dance schools. End the night at the atmospheric El Federal, a watering hole open since 1864.