Urban Retreat From uptown’s bustling avenues to the quiet, cobblestoned streets of downtown, New York is a study in contrasts. The greatest challenge is deciding where to stay. With its fireplace suites, Lafayette House (doubles from $300) feels like your own pied-à-terre. Uptown,NYLO New York City(doubles from $229) pays homage to the jazz age with exclusive commissioned artworks and classic wingback chairs. Visit the restoredPlaza Hotel, where you can browse for art books at Assouline or try on handmade avant-garde jewelry at Misahara, in the expanded shopping area. At the Champagne Bar, enjoy views of the Pulitzer Fountain while sipping bubbly brut cocktails. Three blocks south, check out the skyline from the Peninsula New York’s rooftop bar, Salon de Ning. The vibe: 1930’s Shanghai, with daybeds and mandarin-orange–flavored cocktails. For dinner, Café Cluny (dinner for two $90) is a portal to a Parisian cafe, where waiters deliver plates of French-inspired heritage poulet with sweet onion jus and frisee salads with lardons and fourme d’Ambert. End the evening at Smith & Mills, a tiny TriBeCa boîte in a former carriage house. The cozy banquettes can accommodate only a dozen-odd patrons. Bright lights, big city? From this vantage point, New York feels like a small town.